In April, SJ started to bring the news about the new night train from Stockholm and Hamburg, and I began to plan my trip to the Netherlands by train. Double inspired by a fantastic family from Belgium travelling from Belgium to Furudal by public transport this summer, I decided and booked my trip on one of the first departures of the train in question to visit family and friends in the Netherlands. I’m not new on a night train. I travelled by night before when Willem and I backpacked twenty years ago. We bought tickets for a bed/ sitting place several times. I remember the time when two large Chinese families boarded the train and took our places to sit—with bags full of food, smacking and fuming nicely. I can tell you that during the night, it was smoking, snoring, men walking around in the dark and spitting on the floor of the highest order. But nowadays, with better standards of comfort, it seems to me the ideal way to travel. You can stretch your legs, work, chat and sleep and arrive at your destination rested. It should be easier and more relaxed to come from the ”mainland” to us without a car, and the best way to find out is to test options.
Travel stress I had the past few days.
Travel stress I had the past few days. I had planned to take SJ’s new night train to Hamburg and booked a sleeping wagon. From there, I should travel on an international train to The Netherlands and meet my buddies and family. I was looking forward to travelling green comfortable. However, only a few days before leaving, it is cancelled by SJ because of a lack of sleeping wagons. Suddenly it is quite a puzzle to travel green after all. It took an afternoon, and so far, it looks like a very, very long trip which will take me about 25 hours. The only tickets left are seats for the night train from Snälltåget. All sleeping seats are fully booked, and sleeping whilst sitting is undoubtedly not something I look forward to. But I’ll get there at least on the planned dates. And after the Swedish election results, it feels even more important to DO it instead of just blah blah about green living.
Travelling by train is not yet the most obvious choice for me to travel long distances. Taking a plane is quicker. But we think travelling green is essential for the future. The extra motivation was a family with two kids who travelled by train and bus to be our guests. If we learn more about green travelling, we can advise and help our guests to choose the most sustainable option to travel to us.
Green travelling is relaxed, and the big plus is that you can do things.
Honestly, I have to convince MYSELF a bit more than green travelling by train is relaxed, and the big plus is that you can do things. But I have serious plans. I’m looking forward to sketching, writing stories, reading and listening to the audiobook ”Kattjakten” by Jona Elings Knutsson, an author who grew up in our area. A novel about the life of a retired” Kulla”, one of the many women from Dalarna who travelled to Stockholm for work and were often exploited. All I need to do this fits in my backpack.
I travel from Rättvik to Borlänge to Mjölby station and have to wait for more than an hour because the train from Stockholm to Malmö is delayed. Are we going to miss our train in Malmö? We all get a free coffee and a cinnamon bun as consolation. I write on my laptop, which is excellent to pass the time!
A little jealous, I see passengers happily step into the sleeping wagons.
The train arrives in time for the night train to Hamburg, and I check in immediately upon arrival. A little jealous, I see passengers happily step into the sleeping wagons. The train employees seem very proud to show them everything in there. A little less cheerfully, I am shown the very front wagon with just seats. I suddenly feel old: I travelled like this when I was twenty…. A young man takes the seat next to me. It seems he travels like this more often. From his backpack, a blanket pops up; he takes off his shoes (which I copy), listens to some music (I think) and chats quickly on his mobile now and then. And…. He sleeps! Even when the train stops for two hours in the middle of nowhere and I don’t know how to sit, I feel cramps everywhere! I now wonder if he took a sleeping pill, though. Anyways, for me, it is an awful night without sleep. On the plus side: I finished my audiobook and learned what to take with me back to Sweden.
At Hamburg station.
The train stops in dark Hamburg without notice. I don’t see a sign either, but many get up and pack their things. My fellow traveller’s alarm goes off (what a perfect preparation!), and it’s time the train was supposed to arrive here.
At Hamburg station, In the toilet, I help some fellow travellers through the entrance. Their credit cards seem not to work here. Mine does, and that’s how I met Gry from Norway, who had a more comfortable night in a sleeping wagon. She turns out to be a great coffee buddy with whom I can complain, but I feel proud that I go all the way by train. We notice that many people were facemasks, but not all—no need for it (we think).
But in Germany, wearing your facemask on the train is mandatory again. The last part of the trip goes from Hamburg to Osnabruck to Deventer in the Netherlands, and I notice everyone wears one, and the signs are unmistakable. I feel sweaty; I forgot to bring one! Such a Swedish country girl I have become! At Osnabruck station, two kind Swedish women help me out. I desperately need coffee again, but you need cash for that at this station. In Sweden, we pay for everything with a card nowadays: Wacky way, not in Germany.
On the International train to Amsterdam, I’m conducting myself properly. Just as we cross the Dutch border, I can take my facemask off again—a relief. In Deventer, my friend Emilie is waiting for me to have a great time with lovely food, little bookstores from heaven, etc. After two days, I travel to my family and luckily, my dad has a bigger trunk I may use. I cannot resist buying books in cosy stores, some clothes and pepernoten.
Well prepared for my return trip.
After a super-duper-packed week with family and friends, I’m leaving again. Now well prepared for my return trip, which I am a bit dreading. I get a message that my train is leaving from Hamburg Altona instead of Hamburg Hbhf. The first part from Enschede to Hamburg is going well. I’m wearing a facemask, of course. At the station of Hamburg Altona, it’s a long wait. Not the most excellent station to do that. Half an hour before departure, I walk to the train. There are only three carriages and some German train employees. They tell me I have to wait for the Swedish delegation. Maybe more train carriages from Snälltåget will arrive soon?
The mini train is an SJ train, so I am not allowed to board here!
Shortly before departure, only a German student and I are still waiting for our seat wagons from Snälltåget to Stockholm. However, no Snälltåget! The mini train is an SJ train, so I am not allowed to board here! Luckily, the sleeping cars are almost all empty; we may hop on and sleep in a sleep/seat coupe! My train buddy and I are over the moon; it feels like we are going to Hogwarts. What a relief!
Sheets and pillows lay ready, relaxed, and only disturbed by the Danish custom around midnight.
The rest of the trip to Stockholm is relaxed.
The rest of the trip to Stockholm is relaxed. Around nine o’clock, we find the staff who provide coffee, and I arrive at Stockholm central around 10. Time for one last colossal coffee latte, and I get into Borlänge. I got punished for my coffee latte; I had to pee, which I never liked on the train. The views from the last part to Rättvik are the best as usual. How pretty, Dalarna in fall colours. My favourite season has started for full: extra lovely to be home in Furudal again.
Is train travelling across Europe a comfortable alternative?
Following this train journey and test, the answer to this question is double, the outward journey was less comfortable than I expected, but the return journey met my expectation and was comfortable. In any case, travelling by train is a fun way of slow travelling. The experience starts when you board the train; you see landscapes glide by, have time for a chat with fellow travellers and enjoy people-watching.
Some of the lessons I learned:
- There is no central ticket booking facility in Europe yet; book your train ticket with the ability to change. Otherwise, it is expensive to be flexible and accommodate changes in routes and time.
- Book early. the sooner you book, the cheaper.
- Be flexible. Delays or changes in timetables etcetera belong to this type of travelling.
- Build in some time with each change of train.
- Book a seat so that you are assured of this and don’t have to stress when it’s busy.
- Check out if it’s cheaper to buy an interrail ticket.
Helpful websites: